Sumibiyaki to Junmaishu Sato Tomoya

At Sumibiyaki to Junmaishu Sato Tomoya, in a corner of Higashi-Nippori, charcoal-grilled chicken and carefully selected junmai sake invite a leisurely meal. One of the house specialities is a platter combining chicken thigh and breast, cooked slowly over charcoal. The thigh stays juicy, while the more delicate breast is tender and moist. The seasoning is kept simple, with salt to bring out the flavour of the meat; yuzu pepper and other accompaniments add another layer, while the chicken’s savoury taste deepens with every bite. Charcoal-grilled skewers include chicken hearts, neck meat and skin, as well as tsukune served with egg yolk for dipping. Each offers its own texture and degree of richness.

The sake selection is just as varied, with junmai bottles from across Japan, seasonal releases and limited editions. Choices include Ishikawa’s Kikuhime yamahai junmai and Kuroobi Yuyuu, Fukui’s Denshin, and Akita’s Yamamoto. Some are richly flavoured and full-bodied, others light on the palate; sampling a few alongside the smoky charcoal-grilled dishes is part of the pleasure. Small plates include sashimi that changes daily, thick fried tofu and handmade sesame tofu, making it easy to find something to accompany a drink at your own pace.

At lunchtime, people from the neighbourhood come for generous set meals. The menu includes chicken nanban with house-made tartar sauce, classic karaage and a fragrant oyakodon topped with seared chicken. Whether stopping in alone for a casual meal at the counter or gathering with a group over food and drinks in the evening, it is an unfussy place for everyday dining.